Antique Yak Wool Bobbin Lace Flounce 8 Ft 1 Circa 1870 AF

A rare surviving example of 19th century Yak Wool bobbin lace, dating to the 1870 to 1890 period. This flounce has historically been saved/removed from the hem of a dress or petticoat. This is a great addition to your antique lace collection, or it could be used in sections for special projects.

Although woolen laces were made since the 17th century, this particular type of bobbin lace trim was only introduced in England in the mid 19th century. It was produced in several regions of England including Buckinghamshire, Northamptonshire and Oxfordshire. Imitating Greek or Maltese laces which were made from Yak wool (Yak being a type of Goat). English wool bobbin lace was produced from sheep wool. Produced in a range of weights, the lighter weight finer wool bobbin lace was used for trimming children's dresses and underwear. Medium weight used as a trim for winter dresses and capes, and the heaviest weight was used for curtains and furniture trim. This wool bobbin lace could be made easily and quickly making it popular even for beginners. Also the popularity of woollen lace was boosted by the nineteenth century hygienist Gustav Jäger's promotion of wool fabrics as healthy and sanitary. He sold his wool lace through department stores and catalogues. Interestingly Gustav Jager later sold his brand name to the Englishman Lewis Tomalin, who went on to develop Jaeger into one of the most well known British fashion houses.However, because the fibers did not lie smooth, and it was too elastic meaning it would shrink when removed from the lace pillow, its usage for clothing was short lived.

Please see a very similar example owned by The Embroiders Guild of Australia. The guild describes the characteristics of this bobbin lace as a Grand Torchon or Maltese/ cinq trous ground with no gimp. Being made of a fine thread wool yarn with geometricals designs often used and having a scalloped edge and raised wheat ears. The Smithsonian Museum also hold a green example. The Pitt Rivers Museum, England also has two surviving examples.

Their description describes our surviving example - a length of bobbin lace with tallies, made from long wool, a mohair or worsted in a wide mesh with the 'head' or fan shaped edge.

Size: This cashmere/mohair flounce measures approx 3 1/4" (8 cm) wide by 97 inches or 8 ft 1" (246 cm) with the last 24 inches joined.

Condition: Not perfect, well worn. This has of course been unpicked from a garment, perhaps once, perhaps many times especially if it was attached to an undergarment. Therefore damaged in places to top edge. A few old holes and lose threads.

A very delicate looking wool lace from a bygone age. After contacting a few knitting and wool experts we believe this surviving example to be very scarce.

ITEM ID:13740